Dancing Girl by Terry Callier

We just did an exclusive for Hypebeast, photo documenting the step-by-step process of making the FEIT Hand Sewn High from last to finished shoe. You can see the materials used – leathers and tools, the craftsmen hand sewing one shoe at a time, and the final product to give you a little idea of all the love that goes into each pair.

See full article and all the images at Hypebeast

We had the opportunity to ask Ray Bartkus a bit about his process and perspective in the interview below.

(Digital art by Ray Bartkus for FEIT)

FEIT: We can see by the perplexed details of your work that you are clearly a perfectionist, how long did it take for this characteristic to manifest itself into a skill?

Unfortunately, being a perfectionist means a constant dissatisfaction with the end result and a constant quest to improve your skills.

(From the Forgeries Series)

FEIT: Where did the idea of the forged series come from?

These compositions consist of meticulously drawn copies of documents issued to me and my family members by US government agencies. As an artist might draw a landscape, a still-life or some other more conventional subject matter, I spend months recreating, in watercolor, documents that represented my life’s important milestones and in a broader sense relate to the experiences of many.

The series started as a watercolor drawing of my green card that I did as a present to my attorney, Ms.Wepman, who successfully guided me through the labyrinths of immigration law. Ms. Wepman’s walls were adorned by mementos from previous clients like Naomi Campbell and Keith Richards, and I wanted a piece of my history to her collection.  When I brought my framed drawing of my green card, Ms.Wepman seemed happy, but when I was about to leave, she handed the framed picture back to me telling: “Ray, don’t forget your green card, you’re gonna need it”. I realized then that she thought I had framed the original card, as an attorney might frame a license certificate. I only convinced her otherwise when I took the original from my wallet.

After receiving such a great response for my first “forgery”, I started looking at other documents with great interest and using them as subject matter for more drawings. In a very unorthodox way, these compositions both show the individual and seal the individual’s bond with the world they live in. The formal nature of the documents serves as a background from which the subtle, human elements of each person’s story begin to creep out.

FEIT: Would you consider your self a realist artist?

In our postmodern world the term realism has been twisted and bent in so many ways to produce quite a number of (often contrary) meanings, so I’m not exactly sure what the term stands for. Still, I should admit that material reality inspires and intrigues me more than the loftiest fantasies or most refined abstractions ever could.

FEIT: How does politics affect your work?

Politics affects the social and economic state of the world we are living in, and it affects each of us personally by becoming an important source for our reflections. It requires me to define my stance on one issue or another, and these various stances are often being visualized in my art.

(Lithuania’s 50 Litas Bill designed in 1993)

FEIT: If I am not mistaken, you are the designer of the Lithuanian 50 litas bill. What came first designing that bill or your replica work? How did one fuel the other?

Well, that was a different era. Lithuania in 1990 declared independence from the Soviet Union, which no other country recognized at the time. With a group of artists and bankers, we had meetings to develop the national currency of the country still occupied by the Soviets. I remember marveling at the completely insane situation that we were in: with no experience whatsoever in designing the banknotes, we were debating each square millimeter of the design, while hearing Soviet tanks roaming in the street and anticipating the KGB to send all of us into a forced labor camp somewhere in Siberia.

I had no idea at the time that I will end up in NYC instead, much less that I would be doing my replica series, but probably my inner knowledge of the banknote design somehow gave me more appreciation of something as ubiquitous and commonplace as a banknote, and encouraged the use of bills in various forms in many of my compositions.

FEIT: What is it like designing a bill?

Probably not much different from any other assignment. One has to understand the requirements and the specifics of the particular assignment and to choose the right means to fulfill these.

FEIT: How would you describe your work and your passion to work in your style?

I am not a ‘signature’ artist, I don’t particularly care about a style. Each style is a system of beliefs proclaimed above others. In a way it is cage, antithesis to creativity. I don’t believe one style is better then another. What drives my work is an idea, a concept, and I choose the most direct and economical means to investigate and to convey an idea. No style or technique is out of bounds.

FEIT: Where are you with your art at the moment, are you working on a specific body of work?

I am finishing the series of the large scale oil paintings/ installations titled “last paintings”, which took me over ten years to complete, I am preparing to show these for the first time next November.
I was always intrigued by the amusing paradox of the pre-Raphaelites. By refusing to accept the art trends of their time and by choosing to follow the dogmas of artists from whom they were separated by more then 300 years, they actually end up creating the quintessential art of their time, at least as seen from today’s perspective.
In the same way, I am ignoring the conventions of contemporary art to try to create a contemporary art, haha, if that’s possible at all.

(Digital art by Ray Bartkus for FEIT)

FEIT: Why were you interested in collaborating with Feit on this project?

I am always looking for the new challenges! I never worked for a brand, and I was especially pleased and intrigued by Feit’s business model, their sense of responsibility and the way they thrive on good craftsmanship.
Tull Price approached me after seeing my website, and he told me something in a vein of  ‘I like the way you think’. And I thought, this guy got to the core. He doesn’t ask me for a particular form, he just asks me to think, that is, to create, which is not the usual proposition from a client these days.

(Digital art by Ray Bartkus for FEIT)

FEIT: How do you feel the images you created relate to the brand?

My goal was to create the images which say “Feit” in a visual language. I never try to be literary. I usually opt for strong images that will trigger certain associations. I hope these images serves as an entry point for meditation on simplicity, an anti-corporate mentality, an unorthodox way of solving the problems and the joy of being an underdog.

FEIT: What is your feit/fight about?

I have so many ideas that I hope to explore, so my fight is to create the opportunities to explore them!

Designer Keiji Ashizawa paid tribute to tradition with his creation entitled ‘Hirosaki Knife Box,’ which was produced for Wallpaper’s Handmade collection of objects. This type of tool box is native to the northern Japanese city Hirosaki. Straying from the traditional design slightly, Ashizawa incorporated apple wood into his design to pay tribute to the region’s famed apple production. See the interview below…

FEIT: What inspired you to create this project?

KEIJI: I just would like to show those beautiful Hirosaki knives in the best situation.

FEIT: What did you want to achieve by creating this product?

KEIJI: This box is safe way to package the knives for a long life and an aesthetic presentation system. Also I could represent the artisan’s skills in Hirosaki. Wood artisanship, knife artisanship and Urushi artisanship!

FEIT: In its highest form is the boxset an art object or utilitarian object?

KEIJI: Actually they are very easy to use and I also use them for things like sharpening pencils. Artisans make the knives for utilitarian use, but some people see them as art objects

FEIT: Is there a philosophy that relates to japanese culture in the stacking of the boxes and the overall packaging?

KEIJI: Yes, you could say that. A nest of boxes are actually used for meals, but the beautiful system symbolizes the culture of Japan. It’s compact and neat.

FEIT: Where does the set sell and how much is it?

KEIJI: So far, Hirosaki Chamber of Commerce will sell all of sets. The full set is around $2700.

FEIT: Is it a limited edition object?

KEIJI: So far there are only two boxes in the world. It’s not limited edition,but made to order.

The other day we watched “Drive“, the new neo-noir Ryan Gosling thriller directed by Nicolas Winding Refn. The Danish filmmaker won the best director award at Cannes this year. But today I wanted to spotlighting the music more than the film. It has been awhile since I have seen a movie with such a seamless soundtrack. The music transports you into the world of the film, the way great genre-films should. The dark mood of the hauntingly stoic driver is perfectly braced with a score by Cliff Martinez. Kavinsky/Lovefoxxx, Desire, College/Electric Youth, Riz Ortolani, and Chromatics sounds are also a huge contribution in giving this soundtrack the power of the mood. It has been on repeat at the Feit office since we saw the film.

Have a listen to the soundtrack below – BUY HERE

In fashion today Christopher Raeburn could definitely be referred to as a visionary, both for his “off-the-beaten-path” concepts and his methodology. Though his name may not resonate with many, it should be very familiar to anyone who relishes in technical outerwear. The young UK designer has gained his traction by creating ethically aware and innovative men’s and womenswear collections from re-appropriated military fabrics. Unlike the machine we know as fashion today, Raeburn’s focus remains on producing functional, intelligent, and meticulously crafted garments for his namesake REMADE IN ENGLAND, rather than pumping out a whole new collection for every fashion week.

It is no big surprise that Christopher Raeburn was spotted and approached by Victorinox, creators of the Original Swiss Army Knife, for a commission to create a REMADE IN SWITZERLAND capsule collection for Autumn / Winter 2011. At Feit collaborations are somewhat of a thin-skinned subject. More often than not the results don’t meet the expectations, but this case definitely deserves a mention.

On his visit to the Victorinox factory in Ibach, Switzerland Reaburn was really inspired by the house where Karl Elsner, the founder of the brand, established his workshop in 1884 and created the Original Swiss Army Knife. Together with Victorinox they decided to set up a Swiss LAB on that very site for the production of the capsule collection. Local tailors and apprentices were invited to work alongside his expert machinists to realize the final REMADE IN SWITZERLAND products.

The collaboration resulted in a capsule collection of 8 items, each to be produced in a hand-numbered limited edition of 100 pieces. ‘The project is a fantastic opportunity to align the innovation and individuality of the Christopher Ræburn brand with the heritage and quality of Victorinox’, says Ræburn. ‘Built to last, the resulting garments constructed from re-appropriated Swiss military fabrics are a celebration of craft and a reaction to fast fashion. REMADE IN SWITZERLAND is truly unique’.

Be sure to check out their stop motion video featuring the whole collection below:

Images Courtesy of Victorinox

The latest Feit Hiker is now available for pre-order, with delivery in time for winter in the Northern Hemisphere. Totally waterproof and made by hand, it features rugged Kudu Classic leather, a Hand Sewn Goodyear Welt and a unique FEIT/Vibram two-tone Gumlite Sole. We’re offering two colors – Black and Chocolate.

Material: Kudu Classic

The material we have chosen to build this shoe in is called “kudu”.

The kudu is a very large graceful antelope that grazes in the Bushveld areas of Southern Africa. The kudu is hunted in limited numbers to maintain ecological balance in national parks. Living wild ensures a lean fat to muscle ratio resulting in a strong tight skin.

Kudu is both breathable and reversible – both sides of the skin may be used. The skin side is nubuck like and has visible scratches and scars resulting from life in the wild. The reverse side of the skin is softer than the softest suede, with a lush and velvety texture.

This kudu skin has been coated with wax and ironed, giving it a rich antique look. As the skin breaks you will begin to see more of the kudu’s natural features come to the fore.

Although kudu leather does not need to be lined, this shoe is lined using French calf skin in order to maintain a sleek well formed toe, rather than the draping that would otherwise occur.

Laces: Leather

This shoe is laced with a square leather lace.

Outsole: FEIT Vibram 2 Tone Gumlite

Gumlite is a rubber-foam compound that is highly water resistant and 30% lighter than traditional rubber. Durable and flexible, it is suitable for all terrain.

We have added a leather insert above the heel to match the leather welt.

Vibram is the world’s leading outdoor sole manufacturer. It’s a company with a history of innovation and quality since 1936. Check out vibram.com.

Construction: Handsewn Goodyear

The Hiker is a handsewn on the last and features a genuine handmade Goodyear welt. A welt refers to a piece of leather which is hand stitched to the upper of a shoe as an attach point for the sole. This process was pioneered by the Goodyear family and is the traditional method for manufacturing men’s dress shoes.

The upper of the shoe is stretched over the last and stitched to a leather strip known as a welt. The Vibram sole is then stitched to this welt. This is a labour intensive process performed by expert craftspeople and allows for constant airflow through the shoe aiding ventilation, durability and strength.

Read about the anatomy of a Hiker in our recent article or check out the Park & Bond Feit Hiker – a variation on the theme.

Like all FEIT products the Hiker is handmade.

The Hiker fits a little large.

The Feit Reconnaissance Spring 2012 Collection is available now for preorder for our website members only. Three new styles, in three new colors, made from the finest Italian leather.

The construction we have used on this shoe is unique and has probably not been attempted in the past.

With the Hand Sewn Superclean, we have adapted the hand-made Goodyear construction, usually reserved for only the best men’s dress shoes or hiking boots, and combined it with the heel construction of a hand sewn moccasin, in the shape and feel of a classic court sport sneaker – offered in a low and hi-top version.

The Hand Sewn Stitchdown is a luxury, hand made version of a classic desert boot. The upper is stretched over the last, flanged out and sewn by hand to the sole. This hand sewn lock stitch is made up of a top and a bottom stitch which are then inter-stitched. As a result, the stitching will not unravel, even if a stitch is removed. Shoes with stitchdown construction can use leathers of a higher oil and fat content. This leads to a very supple feel, which cheaper imitations of this process can not achieve.

Like all Feit shoes, each style is built from start-to-finish by one master craftsman, who signs the shoe on completion.

All materials used in this collection are natural Italian vegetable leathers containing minimal dyes, chemicals and pigments, so the hide remains as close as possible to its natural state and is biodegradable. The leather breathes as it does in nature. It is non-irritant, soft to the touch, ages richly over time and has minimal impact to the planet.

This is the perfect shoe to be worn barefoot throughout the summer.

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This hiking boot is a limited-edition collaboration with Park & Bond.

We sat down with fashion editor Josh Peskovits and Jared Flint to create the perfect hiking boot: one that is simultaneously rugged and refined, and as they said, “as ready for dinner at Torrisi’s as a hike in the Catskills”.

The Hiker features a genuine hand made Goodyear welt. A welt refers to a piece of leather which is hand stitched to the upper of a shoe as an attach point for the sole. This process was pioneered by the Goodyear family and is the traditional method for manufacturing men’s dress shoes.

The upper of the shoe is stretched over the last and stitched to a leather strip known as a welt. The Vibram sole is then stitched to this welt. This is a labour intensive process performed by expert craftspeople and allows for constant airflow through the shoe aiding ventilation, durability and strength.

Park & Bond ship with an extra pair of laces so you can tailor the look.

Here’s the first look at the new Kudu Stitchdown colorways, now available for pre order.

The name “Stitchdown” refers to the construction process used to make this shoe. In the stitchdown process, the upper is stretched over the last, flanged out and sewn by hand to the sole. This hand sewn lock stitch is made up of a top and a bottom stitch which are then interstitched. Therefore the stitching will not unravel, even if a stitch is removed. Shoes with Stitchdown construction can use leathers of a higher oil and fat content. This leads to a very supple feel, which cheaper imitations of this process can not achieve.

The new Stitchdown is available in Olive and Gaucho, just 60 pairs of each.